How To Install Mohawk Laminate Flooring

Installing Mohawk laminate flooring can transform a room, offering a durable and stylish surface that's easier to maintain than hardwood. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you through the process. Successfully installing laminate flooring yourself can save money and give you the satisfaction of a job well done. Mastering this skill can also open opportunities for home improvement projects in the future, whether for personal use or even offering your services to others.
Preparation is Key
Gather your materials: You'll need the Mohawk laminate flooring, underlayment, measuring tape, pencil, saw (a circular saw, jigsaw, or laminate cutter), tapping block, pull bar, spacers, hammer, safety glasses, and knee pads.
Prepare the subfloor: Ensure the subfloor is clean, dry, and level. Sweep, vacuum, and check for any unevenness. Minor imperfections can be addressed with a leveling compound. If the subfloor is concrete, perform a moisture test.
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Acclimate the flooring: Store the unopened laminate flooring boxes in the room where they will be installed for at least 48 hours. This allows the flooring to adjust to the room's temperature and humidity, preventing warping or gapping later.
Installation Steps
1. Installing the Underlayment
Roll out the underlayment across the subfloor, covering the entire area where the laminate will be installed. Overlap the edges of the underlayment slightly (check manufacturer’s instructions for specific overlap recommendations). Tape the seams with underlayment tape to create a moisture barrier and prevent shifting.
2. Planning the Layout
Determine the best direction to lay the flooring. Typically, running the planks parallel to the longest wall makes the room appear larger. Also, consider the direction of the light source; laying the planks in the same direction as the light can minimize shadows and create a more uniform appearance.
Calculate the number of rows needed to cover the room. If the last row will be less than half a plank wide, cut the first row down to size to avoid a narrow sliver at the opposite wall. This will provide a more balanced and aesthetically pleasing appearance.

3. Laying the First Row
Begin in a corner of the room. Place spacers (about ¼ inch) along the wall to allow for expansion. Connect the first plank to the wall, ensuring the tongue side is facing out. Continue laying the planks end-to-end, locking them together according to the manufacturer's instructions. Use a tapping block and hammer to gently tap the planks together for a tight fit.
When you reach the end of the first row, you'll likely need to cut a plank to fit. Measure the remaining space, adding the expansion gap. Use a saw or laminate cutter to make a clean, straight cut. Remember to wear safety glasses.
Tip: When cutting laminate, score the surface with a utility knife first to prevent chipping. Cut with the decorative side facing up if using a jigsaw and facing down if using a circular saw.
4. Laying Subsequent Rows
Use the leftover piece from the first row (if it's at least 12 inches long) to start the second row. This staggers the seams and creates a more natural look. Ensure the seams are offset by at least 6 inches. If the leftover piece is too short, use a new plank, cutting it to the appropriate length.

Angle the new plank into the first row, engaging the locking mechanism. Gently tap the plank into place using the tapping block and hammer. Continue laying the row, ensuring each plank is securely locked to the previous row and to the plank next to it. Use the pull bar to tighten the seams against the wall when necessary.
Tip: Work in a systematic way, row by row, to ensure a consistent and secure installation. Regularly check the alignment of the planks to avoid gaps or unevenness.
5. Navigating Obstacles
When you encounter obstacles like pipes or door frames, carefully measure and cut the planks to fit around them. Use a jigsaw to make curved or intricate cuts. Leave an expansion gap around the obstacle.
For door frames, you may need to undercut the frame to allow the laminate to slide underneath. Use a jamb saw or oscillating multi-tool to make a clean, even cut.

6. Installing the Last Row
The last row will likely need to be cut to width. Measure the distance between the second-to-last row and the wall, subtracting the expansion gap. Use a saw or laminate cutter to make the cut.
Use the pull bar to lock the last row into place. You may need to use a tapping block and hammer carefully to ensure a tight fit, especially in tight spaces.
7. Finishing Touches
Remove the spacers from around the perimeter of the room.
Install baseboards or quarter-round molding to cover the expansion gap and provide a finished look. Attach the molding to the wall, not to the flooring, to allow for expansion and contraction.

Install transition strips where the laminate flooring meets other types of flooring, such as tile or carpet. These strips provide a smooth transition and protect the edges of the flooring.
Clean the floor with a damp cloth or mop. Avoid using excessive water, as this can damage the laminate.
Applying this Knowledge
By mastering laminate flooring installation, you gain a valuable skill applicable to various situations. You can improve your own home, increasing its value and comfort. You can help friends and family with their flooring projects, saving them money and building goodwill. Moreover, this skill can be a stepping stone to a career in home renovation or contracting. Practical knowledge of flooring installation also helps you to estimate costs accurately when hiring professionals, ensuring you’re not overcharged. Finally, you can perform repairs yourself, prolonging the life of your floor and saving on maintenance costs.
Checklist for Installing Mohawk Laminate Flooring
- Preparation: Gather materials, prepare subfloor, acclimate flooring.
- Underlayment: Roll out, overlap edges, tape seams.
- Layout: Determine direction, calculate rows.
- First Row: Place spacers, connect planks, cut end plank.
- Subsequent Rows: Stagger seams, angle planks, tap into place.
- Obstacles: Measure and cut around pipes, undercut door frames.
- Last Row: Measure and cut to width, use pull bar to lock.
- Finishing: Remove spacers, install baseboards/molding, install transition strips, clean floor.
